The Venice of Perigord?


The Dromme River runs through the town, right past our hotel, the Chabron.  The double French windows on our second floor room open onto tiny balconies where we can lean out for the view and the fresh air. Across the river a monastery stands, with part of it built into the limestone cliff opposite, and also a house, high above the river. The town  calls itself the Venice of Perigord, but  we  find the designation  doesn’t  quite match the reality. Imgp3918 Imgp3923

We have a short walk along the river, a rest and a clean up before sitting down at the tables by the river for an aperitif while we order  dinner. The dinner menu feataures everything with foie gras or truffles, the specialities of the Perigord.  Animal rights people, read no further. 

I start with ris de veau and foie gras sauteed in butter, served on aarugula, Bernard chooses foie gras mi-cuit(medium rare) with a white raisin sauce.  My main course is a veal chop with morilles which is so unbelievably tender and buttery (don’t think about it), and Bernard has rabit with truffles.  In between we have a champagne ice to cleanse our palates.

We both have a little cheese from the cheese tray, and decide the Motten Charentais is the best tonight (we are near the Charente), so I ask if is so creamy because they get it from a local supplier. waiter tells us, no, they buy it at Super U like everyone else.  It is creamy, or "bien fait"  because it has been properly kept.  He himself freezes it after purchase, then takes it out two days before eating it, and it is perfect.  I’ll try it.

Bernard chooses a creme brulee for dessert, which has a smooth, tender consistency, contrasting nicely with the crunchy burnt sugar topping, while I settle for a Tarte Tatin (upside down apple pie) which is out of this world.  After dinner we have another walk around the village, but now the monastery and the limestone are  cliffs  lit  with amber light.  We cross two bridges, marvel at the reflections on the river, climb the stairs to our room (it has puce walls.  Do you know what color that is?  It is shocking  pink.  Otherwise, the furnishings are nice and the bathroom comfortable.)  We collapse into bed.